Bill Goodwin's Travel Guides

French Polynesia has experienced 9 changes of government since 2004, with power shifting among those who favor independence from France, those who prefer local autonomy within the French system, and various coalitions. The changes have had no impact on visitors.

One of the France-leaning governments reinstituted June 29 as Internal Autonomy Day, a public holiday.

France has officially designated French Polynesia and its other possessions as "overseas communities", as opposed to overseas departments, territories, or countries. The move allows the French government to enact laws specific to each, rather than being bound by national standards.

Books about French Polynesia and other Pacific islands are available from Editions Hare Po in Papeete (tel. 689/58 26 36; www.harepo.com). Some are republications of out-of-print books, and many are in both French and English.

Air Tahiti has installed self-service check-in kiosks at Tahiti-Faaa International Airport. Passengers with e-tickets can get their boarding passes from the automated machines rather than stand in line at the check-in counters. The airline plans to install kiosks at the airports on Bora Bora and Raiatea.

Air Tahiti now has a "Z" class fare which allows passengers to carry up to 50kg (110 lbs) of luggage, as opposed to 20kg (44 lbs) under its Y class economy fare.

Air Tahiti also has a department known as Islands Adventures specializing in tour packages to French Polynesia, including stays at small hotels and family pensions.

Many stores in Papeete now open on Sunday when cruise ships are in port. Tahiti Tourisme has a list available in its visitor information center.

CRUISING AND SAILING

The Tahitian Princess has pulled out of French Polynesia. The 670-passenger ship had operated out of Papeete since 1999, first by Renaissance Cruises and since 2001 by P&O Princess Cruises.

On the other hand, the company has announced that it will send the Pacific Princess to French Polynesia for a series of eight cruises starting on September 28, 2009, and the Royal Princess will make another 10 cruises in 2010.

The 170-passenger tall ship Star Flyer (tel. 800/442-0552; www.starclippers.com), which makes 7- 10- and 11-day cruises from Papeete through the Society and Tuamotu islands, will desert the territory in at the end of February 2010.

Silversea Cruises ([tel] 800/722-9955; www.silversea.com) has cancelled plans to have its luxurious Prince Albert II operate in French Polynesia from March to October 2009.

The French firm Dream Yacht Charter (www.dreamyachtcharter.com) has taken over Archipels Croisières on Moorea and plans to establish a base in June 2009 on Raiatea, French Polynesia's sailing capital.

TRAVELING WITH CHILDREN

It's getting easier to take your kids to French Polynesia. Le Taha'a Private Island & Spa off Tahaa and the Pearl Resorts on Moorea, Bora Bora, Manihi, Tikehau, and Nuku Hiva now welcome children with such features as a cartoon TV channel and age-appropriate DVDs in each unit. While adults continue to get their welcome baskets full of tropical fruits, youngsters now get their own stash of candies.

The Radisson Plaza Resort Tahiti (www.radisson.com/aruefrp) allows kids under 16 to stay free and dine for 50% off. It's a welcomed money-saver.

TAHITI

Among Tahiti's restaurants, the exceptional L'O a la Bouche, on Passage Cardella, has switched from traditional French to a fusion of cooking styles; it's expensive but also is the top restaurant downtown.

At Marina Taina on the west coast, Casablanca Cocktail Restaurant is now Casa Bianca, offering Italian instead of Mediterranean fare.

Also in Marina Taina is the Pink Coconut (tel 41.22.23), an open-air restaurant with a terrific view of Moorea. The Pink Coconut is owned by Steven Baker, son of an American father and Chinese-Tahitian mother, so English is not a problem. The French and Tahitian fare is very good.

In my Tahiti chapters I mention that a Paul Gauguin painting fetches in excess of US$6 million on the rare occasion when one goes on sale. Make that US$43 million, the price paid recently at a Christie's auction for Gauguin's "Man With an Ax."

In downtown Papeete, Avenue Bruat is also known as avenue Pouvanaa Oopa, to honor the father of French Polynesia's independence movement.

MOOREA

Tahiti Expeditions (tel. 28.37.22; www.tahitiexpeditions.com) has a variety of adventures led by Frank Murphy, an American biologist who moved to Moorea in the early 1990s as manager of the University of California's Gump Research Station. The expeditions range from one-day coral reef excursions to extended sailing trips to the Tuamotu Archipelago. Emphasis is on the ecology and history of the islands.

The Sheraton Moorea Lagoon Resort & Spa is now Hilton Moorea Lagoon Resort & Spa (tel 800-HILTONS; www.hiltonworldresorts.com).

The Moorea Pearl Resort & Spa now has a coral nursery consisting of 63 artificial reefs in its lagoon. The project is designed to repopulate the lagoon and to educate guests about the fragile lagoon ecosystem.

The Moorea Green Pearl Golf Club, at Temae near the airport (tel 56.27.32; www.mooreagolf-resort.com), has opened all of its 18 holes. The Jack Nicklaus Design course is French Polynesia's second links, joining the Olivier Bréaud International Golf Course on Tahiti. Greens fees including cart are 12,000 CFP for 9 holes, 18,000 CFP for 18 holes.

BORA BORA

Hotel Bora Bora has closed for extensive renovations. It is expected to reopen in time for its 50th anniversary in 2011 as a smaller, more intimate resort.

The Bora Bora's many repeat guests can opt to stay at the over-the-top Four Seasons Bora Bora (www.fourseasons.com), which has opened on Motu Tehotu, a long island on the northeastern side of the lagoon.

The Bora Bora Nui Resort & Spa is now the Hilton Bora Bora Nui Resort & Spa (tel 800-HILTONS; www.hiltonworldresorts.com).

Le Meridien Bora Bora is adding an over-water wedding chapel, a large infinity-edge swimming pool with its own bar and sun deck, and an ecological education center near the resort's award-winning sea turtle sanctuary and nursery. Eight of its beachside bungalows will be combined into four two-bedroom, two-bathroom villas with plunge pools. Decks of the premium over-water bungalows will be enlarged, and all units will have 32-inch flat screen TVs and wireless Internet access.

Le Meridien's award-winning Turtle Sanctuary has been cited again, this time by Green Hotelier magazine, which named it as one of the world's most eco-friendly resort practices. It's also the most child-friendly resort in French Polynesia.

Among Bora Bora's dining options, TOPdive Resort and Pirate's Bar & Restaurant have both ceased operations. Kaina Hut and Restaurant Patoti have both changed hands, so I can't recommend them at present.

The Pirate's premises north of Vaitape are now occupied by the much better Restaurant St. James (tel. 67.64.62).

The Fiji Visitors Bureau has changed its name to Tourism Fiji All else remains the same except that the information office in Suva is now closed. It still does not have a visitor information office at Nadi International Airport, and its main office is not set up for visitors, so request information before leaving home.

Tourism Fiji's website now has a page devoted to romance in the islands. It has a link to a downloadable guide to getting married in Fiji, including legal requirements and fees

Despite travel warnings issued by Australia, New Zealand and other countries as a result of a military coup which deposed Fiji's elected government 2006, I found everything to be operating as usual during my visit to prepare the new Frommer's Fiji.

The coup leader, Commodore Frank Bainimarama, had agreed in principle to hold elections in 2010, but those plans were quashed in April 2009, when Fiji's president, Ratu Josefa Iloilo, abrogated the country's 1997 constitution and declared himself to be head of state under a new legal order. He did so in the wake of a Fiji High Court decision that the 2006 coup was unconstitutional. Ratu Ilioilo fired the judges and reappointed Bainimarama to head an interim government to serve until elections can be held by September 2014. Bainimarama later rehired most of the judges, but he also has cracked down on media freedoms.

The national police reported all was calm after the latest developments. My contacts in Fiji report that ordinary life is continuing as usual, and Joe Tuamoto, head of Tourisme Fiji, said "it is very much a case of business as usual" in Fiji.

The new government quickly devalued the Fiji dollar by 20%. According to xe.com, the Fiji dollar dropped from about US57¢ to US45¢. The move will make travel to Fiji less expensive, at least for the time being since eventually inflation will drive up local prices.

A record number of visitors arrived in 2008, many drawn by special deals including as much as 50% off hotel rooms and cruises. Check with Tourism Fiji and contact travel agents who specialize in package tours and independent travel to Fiji. I list some of the best on Frommers.com. Tourisme Fiji lists specialist travel agents on its website.

Although the interim government cracked down on Fiji's media, you can still get the news at Fiji Times, Fiji Live, and Fiji TV. Radio New Zealand International is not subject to censorship.

On Denarau Island, the Sheraton Fiji Resort (www.sheraton.com/fiji) has reopened after a thorough renovation. The non-descript pool has been completely rebuilt, and the resort now has its own spa and fitness center.

Its sister property, the Sheraton Denarau Villas, is so sure you will have sunshine during your Fiji holiday that it is offering one night's free accommodation for each rainy day while you're staying in one of its apartments. To cash in, it must rain from 6am to 6pm. You are out of luck if it rains after December 24, 2009.

The InterContinental Fiji Golf Resort & Spa (www.ichotelsgroup.com) is expected to open in May 2009 beside Natadola Beach, one of Fiji's finest. Located 40 minutes south of Nadi via the Queen's Road, the resort will have 216 rooms, 55 bungalows, a spa, and 18-hole golf course.

Out on Beqa Island, Lalati Resort & Spa is now being operated by Brad and Susan DeGeus. The new address is P.O. Box 461, Pacific Harbour (tel. 679/368-0453 in Fiji, 877/750-0233 in the U.S., or 41676-4649 in Australia).

And down on Kadavu, Australians Rob and Rena Forster have sold Dive Kadavu/Matana Beach Resort. They had lived next to its fabulous beach since 1987.

Fire has destroyed the main building at Koro Sun Resort & Spa near Savusavu in northern Fiji. None of the accommodations were damaged, and no one was hurt in the blaze, but the resort is closed indefinitely for repairs.

The hotel community on Taveuni in northern Fiji is still mourning the loss in June of Gracie, owner Ronna Goldstein's friendly Doberman who was in charge of guest relations at Coconut Grove Beachfront Cottages (www.coconut
grovefiji.com). Gracie, who was 14 when she passed away in her sleep, will be sorely missed. Taking over her duties is Sophie, another Doberman who has already acquired the nickname "Miss Wiggles" because of her tail-wagging manner of greeting guests.

In my books I say that the Papaya bure is Coconut Grove's most private unit. As Ronna points out, that title belongs to her Banana bure.

Also on Taveuni, Maravu Plantation Beach Resort & Spa (www.maravu.com) has added a luxurious one-bedroom guest bungalow up in a huge rain tree. Known appropriately as "The Treehouse," it has a Jacuzzi in its large deck overlooking the sea, and two bathrooms inside and another outdoors.

Off Taveuni, Qamea Resort & Spa (www.qamea.com) has surrounded its pool with a 1,500-square-foot deck with covered daybeds. Nearby Matangi Island Resort (www.matangiisland.com) has added a new central building and an outdoor pool.

The American dive company Aqua-Trek has sold the Garden Island Resort on Taveuni (www.gardenislandresort.com) to CHI International, a Hong Kong-based company. The hotel was closed for several months for improvements, including the addition of outdoor spa tubs in 15 of its 30 rooms.

The New Zealand dollar, the coin of the realm in the Cook Islands, has dropped from US80¢ to about US57¢ since I prepared the eleventh edition of Frommer's South Pacific, with similar decreases against other major currencies.

Australians and New Zealanders can save by buying special add-on packages to Aitutaki through June 2009. Contact the Cook Islands Tourism Corporation (www.cookislands.travel).

The Cook Islands departure tax will be included in the price of airline tickets beginning in September 2009. You won't have to worry about saving enough New Zealand dollars to pay the tax in cash at the airport before departing.

Sunday is no longer a day of rest for Air Rarotonga (www.airraro.com), which is flying between Rarotonga and Aitutaki on the Christian Sabbath. The Sunday flights are in demand, so reserve as early as possible.

After getting your local drivers license at the new Avarua police station, a modern facility funded by the People's Republic of China, do not ride two abreast on your motorbike. The local traffic cops have been cracking down on bike riders who ride side-by-side, which is illegal.

Digicell, the Caribbean-based mobile phone company which already has moved into Fiji, Samoa and Tonga, has announced plans to buy Telekom Cook Islands, the local phone company.

Telecom Cook Islands already had announced international cell phone roaming agreements with T-Mobile USA, Vodafone New Zealand, and Telstra Australia. Similar arrangements were in the works with Optus/Sing Tel of Australia, 02 of Germany, SingTel of Singapore, and Orange and T Mobile of the U.K.

And it already costs less to call home from the Cook Islands. It's a bit complicated, but you can make international calls from 10 minutes to 1 hour to the U.S., the U.K., Australia, and Fiji for NZ$10, or to New Zealand for NZ$5. You still must pay by the minute for calls of less than 10 or 5 minutes, respectively.

Rarotonga Brewery has gone out of business, putting an end to Cooks Lager, the local brew.

The Cook Islands Parliament has proposed to completely ban smoking on the premises of all hotels, restaurants, bars, including their beaches and other outdoor areas. Fines would be NZ$2,000 per violation, prompting Jack Cooper of Trader Jack's Restaurant and Bar to predict "it would be cheaper to smoke dope."

Formerly known as Tamanu Beach Village, Aitutaki's Tamanu Beach (www.tamanubeach.com) has opened a new beachside restaurant and bar serving breakfast, lunch and dinner daily and staging an island night feast and dance show on Thursday evening. The building is trimmed with local tamanu (mahogany) timber.

Also on Aitutaki, the phone number for Tuano's Garden Cafe is now 31-562. Tuano and Sonja Raela have stopped serving dinner but they still open 3 to 5pm Monday, Wednesday, and Friday for afternoon tea. Their fruit and vegetable market and souvenir shop (featuring Tuano's woodcarvings and Sonja's paintings and pareus) are open daily 10am to 5pm. They also conduct plantation tours daily with prior reservations.

The "Survivor" television series plans to film its next episodes in Samoa, beginning in June 2009.

Don't count on Polynsian Airlines flying between Upolu and Savai'i these days. Plan to take the ferry.

The Samoa Shipping Corporation is operating Talofa Cruises (tel. 26695; www.talofacruises.com) out of Apia on the Lady Filifilia, a 150-passenger fast catamaran. Four cruises are offered including one around Upolu Island and another to the east coast of Savai'i. Prices range from US$115 to US$150 per adult, less for children 5 to 12.

The corporation also has hiked fares on the Lady Naomi ferry between Apia and Pago Pago by an average of US$30.

Captain Chris Donato's Samoa Sport Fishing Adventures (tel. 41-069; www.samoasportfishing.com) now goes offshore in search of blue marlin, sailfish, mahimahi, tuna, wahoo and other species. Fishing is from the Black Pearl, a 31-foot Ocean Master.

Built with aid from Japan, a new visitor center has opened at O Le Pupu-Pu’e National Park on Upolu's south coast. The parks' hiking trail to Togitogiga Waterfalls has been upgraded, and toilets and changing rooms have been added.

The government has endorsed Daylight Savings Time in Samoa, beginning on the first Sunday in October 2009 and ending on the last Sunday in March 2010.

It also intends to switch the country from driving on the right hand side of the road to the left side, beginning on September 7, 2009.

Planning a trip is easier now that the Samoa Hotel Association has its own website, www.samoa-hotels.ws. You can search for hotels by price range and by date.

Fiji's Tanoa Hotel Group has bought Apia's Hotel Kitano Tusitala, which was built by the government in the 1970s and most recently operated by Kitano, a Japanese construction company. Extensive renovations are planned.

The Apia area has two new hotels. Manumea Resort (tel. 685/27-755; www.samoa-hotels.ws/Manumea_Resort; manumea@ipasifica.net) is on the Cross Island Road in Vailima. Its 12 suites have ocean views from this refreshingly cool perch near the Robert Louis Stevenson Museum.

Closer to the central business district, the boutique-style Samoa Marina Hotel (www.samoa-hotels.ws/Samoa_Marina_Hotel) occupies a century-old home opposite the yacht harbor and main wharf. Opened in February 2009, it will have 14 rooms when completed.

On Upolu's south coast, Coconuts Beach Club has changed its name to Coconuts Beach Club Resort & Spa (www.coconutsbeachclubsamoa.com) following installation of a full service spa starring a gecko-shaped heated pool, private outdoor shower, and yoga room with ocean view. The resort also has remodeled its over-water bungalows, expanding them by 20% and adding shaded areas to their decks.

Ian and Lyvia Black have relocated their terrific Sails Restaurant and Bar from the old building where Robert Louis Stevenson once lived to new quarters on the seawall near the Apia Yacht Club on the Mulinu'u Peninsula.

Samoa has new TV and radio stations. Star Television broadcasts over-the-air, as does FETU FM, which emphasizes original music by local performers.

Savai'i

Over on pristine Savai'i, Kuki and Sara Retzlaff have completely rebuilt their Le Lagoto Beach Resort (www.lelagoto.ws) into a terrific boutique hotel. Most of their 12 units are in Samoan-style fales with intricately lashed ceilings. An infinity pool augments the fine beach.

Warren Jopling of Safua Tours is now charging US$50 per person for his fabulous guided excursions around Samoa's big island. They are worth every cent and more.

Vailoa village has built a road to Olemoe Waterfall, near the historic Pulemelei Mound near the island's south coast. The village charges a small admission to use the road and visit the falls. Unfortunately there is no longer a track from Pulemelei Mound to the falls.

Green Turtle Tours and Ecotour Samoa have both ceased operations.

Sadie Thompson Inn and Sadie's by the Sea now have a joint website: www.sadieshotels.com. Sadie's by the Sea (tel. 684/633-5900) was part of the old Rainmaker Hotel until renovated by Tom and Ta'aloga Drabble. It's the only American Samoan hotel on a beach.

The local government has changed the territory's Tourism Office, formerly a division of the Commerce Department, into a quasi-independent authority known as the American Samoa Visitors Bureau. The bureau has been slow to get off the ground, however, and does not have an official website. In the meantime, information is available at American Samoa Tourism.

Chicken of the Sea has announced that it will close one of the two tuna canneries in Pago Pago at the end of September 2009.

The American-based fast food chain Checkers has joined McDonald's, Pizza Hut, and Kentucky Fried Chicken in American Samoa. The new drive-through restaurant is in the Sen. Daniel Inoye Industrial Park on the airport road in Tafuna. And McDonald's has added an outlet in Pago Pago.

An undersea volcano erupted just 7 miles (12km) north of Tongatapu on March 17, 2009. Smoke and ash could be seen belching out of the sea from the town of Nuku'alofa. No damage was done on Tongatapu. Air New Zealand switched its night flights to daylight hours so its pilots could see and avoid the plume.

Chathams Pacific: The Friendly Islands Airline (www.chathamspacific.com) is the only airline flying between Tongatapu, Hapai'i, and Vava'u. It is operated by Air Chathams (www.airchathams.co.nz), which has flown between mainland New Zealand and the Chatham Islands for 20 years. Airlines Tonga and Peau Vava'u have both gone out of business.

Tonga is issuing new currency notes bearing the image of King George Tupou IV, who assumed the throne when his father, King Taufa'ahau Tupou IV, died on September 10, 2006, at age 88.

Henceforth August 1st will be observed as a public holiday in honor of King George's proclaimed birthday. His actual birthday, May 4, is no longer a national holiday. The annual Heilala Festival, which marked the late King Taufa'ahau Tupou's birthday on July 4, continues as the country's premier event.

Also, the country will take off July 12 to honor the birthday of Prince Tupouto'a Lavaka, the childless, bachelor king's younger brother and now heir to the throne.

Reconstruction of downtown Nuku'alofa, which was severely damaged during riots in 2006, is expected to begin in April 2009.

Downtown Nuku'alofa already has a new hotel, the 24-room Loumaile Lodge (www.loumaile.com), on Taufa'ahau Road opposite the Royal Tombs. The rooms are on the top two floors of the building, above a Chinese restaurant and bar, a massage parlor, and shops. It was built by Siosaia Moehau, a successful Tonga businessman who also owns the Black Pearl Suites.

Another newbie is the 11-room Little Italy Hotel & Restaurant (tel/fax 676/25-053; www.littleitalytonga.com), on Vuna Road a 15-minute walk west of the Royal Palace. It's the creation of Angelo Carpanzano, a Milan native, who with his Tongan wife Meleseini founded Little Italy Pizzeria in 1996. The restaurant is now on the ground floor of the hotel. Upstairs, half the rooms have balconies overlooking the lagoon across Vuna Road, while the other half face the swimming pool out back.

The long-delayed Royal International Hotel has opened near Fua'amotu International Airport. It's handy if you arrive in the middle of the night and must wait for a flight to Vava'u the next morning. Otherwise, I cannot imagine staying in the middle of Tongatapu Island.

In other news, Japan has announced plans to open an embassy in Tonga, and the United States will begin processing visa applications in Nuku'alofa.